A Cross-Shore Beach Profile Evolution Model

Article


Jayaratne, R., Rahman, MD Rezaur and Shibayama, Tomoya 2015. A Cross-Shore Beach Profile Evolution Model. Coastal Engineering Journal. 56 (04), p. 1450020.
AuthorsJayaratne, R., Rahman, MD Rezaur and Shibayama, Tomoya
Abstract

Developing an accurate and reliable time-averaged beach profile evolution model under normal and storm conditions is a challenging task. Over the last few decades, a number of beach deformation models have been developed under limited experimental conditions and uncertainties, and sometimes they required a long computation time. It is quite evident that a large amount of wave, current, sediment and beach profile data is available today. The present study leads to the development of a simple two-dimensional beach profile evolution model with on-offshore sand bar formation under non-storm and storm conditions based on the time-averaged suspended sediment concentration models of Jayaratne & Shibayama [2007] and Jayaratne et al. [2011]. These models were formulated for computing sediment concentration in and outside the surf zone under three different mechanisms: 1) suspension due to turbulent motion over sand ripples, 2) suspension from sheet flow layer and, 3) suspension due to turbulent motion under breaking waves. The suspended load is calculated by the product of time-averaged sediment concentration and undertow velocity from edge of the wave boundary layer to wave trough, and mass transport velocity from wave trough to crest (bore-like wave region). Sediment transport in wave boundary layer is computed from the modified Watanabe [1982] model. Rattanapitikon and Shibayama [1998] wave model is used to calculate the average rate of energy dissipation due to wave breaking. The beach deformation is calculated from the conservation of sediment mass while the avalanching concept of Larson and Kraus [1989] is used to re-distribute the sediment mass in neighbouring grids for a steady solution. Published field-scale experimental and natural beach profiles from 5 high-quality data sources from 1983-2009 [Kajima et al., 1983; Kraus and Larson, 1988; Port and Airport Research Institute, Japan, 2005, 2009; Hasan & Takewaka, 2007, 2009; Ruessink et al., 2007] are used to verify the performance of the proposed numerical model. The key feature in this process-based model is that it takes about a couple of minutes to simulate beach profiles of a 2-3 days storm qualitatively at a fairly satisfactory level using a standard personal computer. It is found that the present numerical predictions are not better than the null hypothesis as the model is in a stage of ongoing development. Therefore, it is believed that the final model is often more value to a practical coastal engineer than a very detailed study of hydrodynamics and sediment transport study, however an incorporation of swash dynamics, more precise evaluation of offshore sand bar formation and continuation to a longer time scale with precise beach deformation is recommended as the next stage of the model.

JournalCoastal Engineering Journal
Journal citation56 (04), p. 1450020
ISSN1793-6292
0578-5634
Year2015
PublisherWorld Scientific Publishing
Accepted author manuscript
License
CC BY
Web address (URL)http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/S057856341450020X
Publication dates
Print14 Jan 2015
Publication process dates
Deposited23 Oct 2015
Accepted10 Nov 2014
FunderUniversity of East London, School of Architecture, Computing and Engineering
Japan Society for the Promotion of Science
Waseda University Research Initiative
Copyright informationElectronic version of an article published as Coast. Eng. J. 56, 1450020 (2014) [70 pages], 10.1142/S057856341450020X © World Scientific Publishing Company, http://www.worldscientific.com/worldscinet/cej
Permalink -

https://repository.uel.ac.uk/item/85773

Download files


Accepted author manuscript
  • 232
    total views
  • 388
    total downloads
  • 0
    views this month
  • 0
    downloads this month

Export as

Related outputs

Proposing Thematic Mapping for Integrated Risk Communication: A study of British & Japanese perspectives in flood-prone communities
Pawlik, M., Kitagawa, K., Shiroshita, H., Jayaratne, R., Nomoto, S., Okumura, Y. and Kono, K. 2024. Proposing Thematic Mapping for Integrated Risk Communication: A study of British & Japanese perspectives in flood-prone communities. International Journal of Disaster Risk Reduction. 107 (Art. 104472). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijdrr.2024.104472
Mixed debris interaction with obstacle array under extreme flood conditions
Chowdury, P., Fredericks, I-J., Castaño Alvarez, J., Clark, M., Jayaratne, R., Wijetunge, J. J., Raby, A. and Taylor, P. 2024. Mixed debris interaction with obstacle array under extreme flood conditions. Journal of Flood Risk Management. 7 (3), p. e12987. https://doi.org/10.1111/jfr3.12987
Integrating communities’ perspectives in understanding disaster risk
Shiroshita, H., Jayaratne, R. and Kitagawa, K. 2024. Integrating communities’ perspectives in understanding disaster risk. Natural Hazards. 120, pp. 8263-8282. https://doi.org/10.1007/s11069-024-06452-0
“The great source” microplastic abundance and characteristics along the river Thames
Devereux, R., Ayati, B., Westhead, E. K., Jayaratne, R. and Newport, D. 2023. “The great source” microplastic abundance and characteristics along the river Thames. Marine Pollution Bulletin. 191 (Art. 114965). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.marpolbul.2023.114965
Impact of the Covid-19 pandemic on microplastic abundance along the River Thames
Devereux, R., Ayati, B., Westhead, E. K., Jayaratne, R. and Newport, D. 2023. Impact of the Covid-19 pandemic on microplastic abundance along the River Thames. Marine Pollution Bulletin. 189 (Art.114763). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.marpolbul.2023.114763
6.3 Local and overtopping scour
Jayaratne, R. 2022. 6.3 Local and overtopping scour. in: Shibayama, T. and Esteban, M. (ed.) Coastal Disaster Surveys and Assessment for Risk Mitigation CRC Press. pp. 166-174
Sediment Size Effect on the Landward Coastal Structure Scour Prediction due to Tsunami
Gelfi, M., Suzuki, T. and Jayaratne, R. 2022. Sediment Size Effect on the Landward Coastal Structure Scour Prediction due to Tsunami. Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers, Ser. B2 (Coastal Engineering). 78 (2), pp. 469-474. https://doi.org/10.2208/kaigan.78.2_I_469
Laboratory modelling of vertical sediment mixing in the surf zone
Suzuki, T., Tajima, K. and Jayaratne, R. 2022. Laboratory modelling of vertical sediment mixing in the surf zone. Coastal Engineering Journal. 64 (4), pp. 619-629. https://doi.org/10.1080/21664250.2022.2143750
Microplastic abundance in the Thames River during the New Year period
Devereux, R., Westhead, E., Jayaratne, R. and Newport, D. 2022. Microplastic abundance in the Thames River during the New Year period. Marine Pollution Bulletin. 177 (Art. 113534). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.marpolbul.2022.113534
Influence of manmade effects on geomorphology, bathymetry and coastal dynamics in a monsoon-affected river outlet in Southwest coast of Sri Lanka
Gunasinghe, G. P., Ruhunage, L., Ratnayake, N. P., Ratnayake, A. S., Samaradivakara, G. V. I. and Jayaratne, R. 2021. Influence of manmade effects on geomorphology, bathymetry and coastal dynamics in a monsoon-affected river outlet in Southwest coast of Sri Lanka. Environmental Earth Sciences. 80 (Art. 238). https://doi.org/10.1007/s12665-021-09555-0
New Suspended Sand Concentration Model for Breaking Waves
Lim, G., Jayaratne, R. and Shibayama, T. 2020. New Suspended Sand Concentration Model for Breaking Waves. International Conference on Coastal Engineering, 2020. Online 06 - 09 Oct 2020 Coasts, Oceans, Ports and Rivers Institute. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36v.sediment.32
Building Foundation Instability Induced by Tsunami Scour
Nicholas, M. J., Jayaratne, R., Suzuki, T. and Shibayama, T. 2020. Building Foundation Instability Induced by Tsunami Scour. International Conference on Coastal Engineering, 2020. Online 06 - 09 Oct 2020 Coasts, Oceans, Ports and Rivers Institute. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36v.currents.29
Modelling of Krakatoa Tsunami Wave Propagation and Community Engagement Based on SWOT Analysis in Southern Lampung, Indonesia
Jayaratne, R., Fauzi, A. M., Achiari, H. and Shibayama, T. 2020. Modelling of Krakatoa Tsunami Wave Propagation and Community Engagement Based on SWOT Analysis in Southern Lampung, Indonesia. International Conference on Coastal Engineering, 2020. Online 06 - 09 Oct 2020 Coasts, Oceans, Ports and Rivers Institute. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36v.currents.30
Modeling of Berm Formation and Erosion at the Southern Coast of the Caspian Sea
Tabasi, M., Soltanpour, M., Suzuki, T. and Jayaratne, R. 2020. Modeling of Berm Formation and Erosion at the Southern Coast of the Caspian Sea. International Conference on Coastal Engineering, 2020. Online 06 - 09 Oct 2020 Coasts, Oceans, Ports and Rivers Institute. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36v.papers.19
Corrigendum to “Suspended sand concentration models under breaking waves: Evaluation of new and existing formulations” [Marine Geology 426 (2020) 106197]
Lim, G., Jayaratne, R. and Shibayama, T. 2020. Corrigendum to “Suspended sand concentration models under breaking waves: Evaluation of new and existing formulations” [Marine Geology 426 (2020) 106197]. Marine Geology. 430 (Art. 106362). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2020.106362
On the status and mechanisms of coastal erosion in Marawila Beach, Sri Lanka
Ratnayakage, S. M. S., Sasaki, J., Suzuki, T., Jayaratne, R., Ranawaka, R. A. S. and Pathmasiri, S. D. 2020. On the status and mechanisms of coastal erosion in Marawila Beach, Sri Lanka. Natural Hazards. 103, p. 1261–1289. https://doi.org/10.1007/s11069-020-04034-4
Suspended sand concentration models under breaking waves: Evaluation of new and existing formulations
Lim, G., Jayaratne, R. and Shibayama, T. 2020. Suspended sand concentration models under breaking waves: Evaluation of new and existing formulations. Marine Geology. 246 (Art. 106197). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2020.106197
On the Estimation of the Surface Elevation of Regular and Irregular Waves Using the Velocity Field of Bubbles
Vargas, D., Jayaratne, R., Mendoza, E. and Silva, R. 2020. On the Estimation of the Surface Elevation of Regular and Irregular Waves Using the Velocity Field of Bubbles. Journal of Marine Science and Engineering. 8 (Art. 88). https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse8020088
Community engagement in preparing for natural water disasters of different time and magnitude scales – A comparative study between Japan and England
Shiroshita, H., Jayaratne, R. and Kitagawa, K. 2019. Community engagement in preparing for natural water disasters of different time and magnitude scales – A comparative study between Japan and England. IDRiM 2019: The 10th conference of the international society for Integrated Disaster Risk Management. Nice, France. 16 - 18 Oct 2019
Individual violent wave-overtopping events: behaviour and estimation
Raby, Alison, Jayaratne, R., Bredmose, Henrik and Bullock, Geoff 2019. Individual violent wave-overtopping events: behaviour and estimation. Journal of Hydraulic Research. 58 (1), pp. 34-46. https://doi.org/10.1080/00221686.2018.1555549
Historical changes in the shoreline and management of Marawila Beach, Sri Lanka, from 1980 to 2017
Samarasekara, Ratnayakage Sameera Maduranga, Sasaki, Jun, Jayaratne, R., Suzuki, Takayuki, Ranawaka, R.A.S. and Pathmasiri, Sakuntha D. 2018. Historical changes in the shoreline and management of Marawila Beach, Sri Lanka, from 1980 to 2017. Ocean & Coastal Management. 165, pp. 370-384. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ocecoaman.2018.09.012
Sediment Resuspension Due to Near-Bed Turbulent Effects: A Deep Sea Case Study on the Northwest Continental Slope of Western Australia
Salim, Sarik, Pattiaratchi, Charitha, Tinoco, Rafael O. and Jayaratne, R. 2018. Sediment Resuspension Due to Near-Bed Turbulent Effects: A Deep Sea Case Study on the Northwest Continental Slope of Western Australia. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans. 123 (10), pp. 7102-7119. https://doi.org/10.1029/2018JC013819
Erratum for “Stability of Breakwater Armor Units against Tsunami Attacks” by Miguel Esteban, Ravindra Jayaratne, Takahito Mikami, Izumi Morikubo, Tomoya Shibayama, Nguyen Danh Thao, Koichiro Ohira, Akira Ohtani, Yusuke Mizuno, Mizuho Kinoshita, and Shunya Matsuba
Esteban, M., Jayaratne, R., Mikami, T., Morikubo, I., Shibayama, T., Thao, N. D., Ohira, K., Ohtani, A., Mizuno, Y., Kinoshita, M. and Matsuba, S. 2016. Erratum for “Stability of Breakwater Armor Units against Tsunami Attacks” by Miguel Esteban, Ravindra Jayaratne, Takahito Mikami, Izumi Morikubo, Tomoya Shibayama, Nguyen Danh Thao, Koichiro Ohira, Akira Ohtani, Yusuke Mizuno, Mizuho Kinoshita, and Shunya Matsuba. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering. 142 (4). https://doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000335
The influence of turbulent bursting on sediment resuspension under fluvial unidirectional currents
Salim, Sarik, Pattiaratchi, Charitha, Tinoco, Rafael, Coco, Giovanni, Hetzel, Yasha, Wijeratne, Sarath and Jayaratne, R. 2016. The influence of turbulent bursting on sediment resuspension under fluvial unidirectional currents. Earth Surface Dynamics. 5 (3), pp. 399-415. https://doi.org/10.5194/esurf-5-399-2017
Failure Mechanisms and Local Scour at Coastal Structures induced by Tsunamis
Jayaratne, R., Premaratne, Buddhika, Adewale, Abimbola, Mikami, Takahito, Matsuba, Shunya, Shibayama, Tomoya, Esteban, Miguel and Nistor, Ioan 2016. Failure Mechanisms and Local Scour at Coastal Structures induced by Tsunamis. Coastal Engineering Journal. 58 (4), p. 1640017. https://doi.org/10.1142/S0578563416400179
Chapter 15 - Stability of Breakwaters Against Tsunami Attack
Esteban, M., Danh Thao, N., Takagi, H., Jayaratne, R., Mikami, T. and Shibayama, T. 2015. Chapter 15 - Stability of Breakwaters Against Tsunami Attack. in: Esteban, M., Takagi, H. and Shibayama, T. (ed.) Handbook of Coastal Disaster Mitigation for Engineers and Planners Butterworth-Heinemann. pp. 293-323
Chapter 17 - Destruction of Coastal Structures after the 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake and Tsunami
Jayaratne, R., Premaratne, B., Mikami, T., Matsuba, S., Shibayama, T., Esteban, M. and Marriott, M. 2015. Chapter 17 - Destruction of Coastal Structures after the 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake and Tsunami. in: Esteban, M., Takagi, H. and Shibayama, T. (ed.) Handbook of Coastal Disaster Mitigation for Engineers and Planners Butterworth-Heinemann. pp. 349-362
Hydrodynamic investigation of fluvial sediment transport with Soil Protrusion Apparatus (SPA)
Jayaratne, R. and Salim, Sarik 2014. Hydrodynamic investigation of fluvial sediment transport with Soil Protrusion Apparatus (SPA). Open Engineering. 5 (1), pp. 48-58. https://doi.org/10.1515/eng-2015-0001
Stability of Breakwater Armor Units against Tsunami Attacks
Esteban, M., Jayaratne, R., Mikami, T., Morikubo, I., Shibayama, T., Thao, N. D., Ohira, K., Ohtani, A., Mizuno, Y., Kinoshita, M. and Matsuba, S. 2014. Stability of Breakwater Armor Units against Tsunami Attacks. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering. 140 (2), pp. 188-198. https://doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000227
Applicability of suspended sediment concentration formulae to large-scale beach morphological changes
Jayaratne, R., Takayama, Yasufumi and Shibayama, Tomoya 2012. Applicability of suspended sediment concentration formulae to large-scale beach morphological changes. in: Lynett, Patrick and McKee Smith, Jane (ed.) Proceedings of 33rd Conference on Coastal Engineering, Santander, Spain, 2012 Reston, VA Coastal Engineering Research Council.
Field Survey of Coastal Dyke Failure due to 2011 Great Eastern Japan Earthquake Tsunami
Jayaratne, R. 2013. Field Survey of Coastal Dyke Failure due to 2011 Great Eastern Japan Earthquake Tsunami. UEL Research and Knowledge Exchange Conference 2013. University of East London, London 26 Jun 2013 London University of East London.
A Practical Computer Simulation Model for Two-Dimensional Beach Deformation (XBEACH Model)
Jayaratne, R. 2012. A Practical Computer Simulation Model for Two-Dimensional Beach Deformation (XBEACH Model). UEL Research and Knowledge Exchange Conference 2012. University of East London, London 03 May 2012 London University of East London.
Shallow Water Hydrodynamic Investigation Of Local Scour Over Smooth And Rough Sediment Beds
Salim, Mohammad S. and Jayaratne, R. 2012. Shallow Water Hydrodynamic Investigation Of Local Scour Over Smooth And Rough Sediment Beds. The International Journal of Ocean and Climate Systems. 3 (4), pp. 229-240.
Soil protrusion apparatus for erosion rate prediction with smooth and rough sediment beds
Salim, Sarik, Jayaratne, R. and Wijeyesekera, D.Chitral 2011. Soil protrusion apparatus for erosion rate prediction with smooth and rough sediment beds. Advances in Computing and Technology. University of East London, London Jan 2011 London University of East London, School of Architecture Computing and Engineering.
Experimental investigation of hydrodynamic erosion of soils
Jayaratne, R. and Wijeyesekera, D.Chitral 2010. Experimental investigation of hydrodynamic erosion of soils. Proceedings of Advances in Computing and Technology, (AC&T) The School of Computing and Technology 5th Annual Conference, University of East London, pp. 79-85
Fabric of peat soils using image analysis
Zainorabidin, Adnan, Wijeyesekera, D.Chitral and Jayaratne, R. 2010. Fabric of peat soils using image analysis.
Hydraulic roughness – links between Manning’s coefficient, Nikuradse’s equivalent sand roughness and bed grain size
Marriott, M. and Jayaratne, R. 2010. Hydraulic roughness – links between Manning’s coefficient, Nikuradse’s equivalent sand roughness and bed grain size. Advances in Computing and Technology 2010. University of East London, London London University of East London, School of Architecture Computing and Engineering. pp. 27-32