A Cross-Shore Beach Profile Evolution Model

Article


Jayaratne, R., Rahman, MD Rezaur and Shibayama, Tomoya 2015. A Cross-Shore Beach Profile Evolution Model. Coastal Engineering Journal. 56 (04), p. 1450020.
AuthorsJayaratne, R., Rahman, MD Rezaur and Shibayama, Tomoya
Abstract

Developing an accurate and reliable time-averaged beach profile evolution model under
normal and storm conditions is a challenging task. Over the last few decades, a number of
beach deformation models have been developed under limited experimental conditions and
uncertainties, and sometimes they required a long computation time. It is quite evident that a
large amount of wave, current, sediment and beach profile data is available today. The
present study leads to the development of a simple two-dimensional beach profile evolution
model with on-offshore sand bar formation under non-storm and storm conditions based on
the time-averaged suspended sediment concentration models of Jayaratne & Shibayama
[2007] and Jayaratne et al. [2011]. These models were formulated for computing sediment
concentration in and outside the surf zone under three different mechanisms: 1) suspension
due to turbulent motion over sand ripples, 2) suspension from sheet flow layer and, 3)
suspension due to turbulent motion under breaking waves. The suspended load is calculated
by the product of time-averaged sediment concentration and undertow velocity from edge of
the wave boundary layer to wave trough, and mass transport velocity from wave trough to
crest (bore-like wave region). Sediment transport in wave boundary layer is computed from
the modified Watanabe [1982] model. Rattanapitikon and Shibayama [1998] wave model is
used to calculate the average rate of energy dissipation due to wave breaking. The beach
deformation is calculated from the conservation of sediment mass while the avalanching
concept of Larson and Kraus [1989] is used to re-distribute the sediment mass in
neighbouring grids for a steady solution. Published field-scale experimental and natural beach
profiles from 5 high-quality data sources from 1983-2009 [Kajima et al., 1983; Kraus and
Larson, 1988; Port and Airport Research Institute, Japan, 2005, 2009; Hasan & Takewaka,
2007, 2009; Ruessink et al., 2007] are used to verify the performance of the proposed
numerical model. The key feature in this process-based model is that it takes about a couple
of minutes to simulate beach profiles of a 2-3 days storm qualitatively at a fairly satisfactory
level using a standard personal computer. It is found that the present numerical predictions
are not better than the null hypothesis as the model is in a stage of ongoing development.
Therefore, it is believed that the final model is often more value to a practical coastal
engineer than a very detailed study of hydrodynamics and sediment transport study, however
an incorporation of swash dynamics, more precise evaluation of offshore sand bar formation
and continuation to a longer time scale with precise beach deformation is recommended as
the next stage of the model.

JournalCoastal Engineering Journal
Journal citation56 (04), p. 1450020
ISSN1793-6292
0578-5634
Year2015
PublisherWorld Scientific Publishing
Accepted author manuscript
License
CC BY
Web address (URL)http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/S057856341450020X
Publication dates
Print14 Jan 2015
Publication process dates
Deposited23 Oct 2015
Accepted10 Nov 2014
FunderUniversity of East London, School of Architecture, Computing and Engineering
Japan Society for the Promotion of Science
Waseda University Research Initiative
Copyright informationElectronic version of an article published as Coast. Eng. J. 56, 1450020 (2014) [70 pages], 10.1142/S057856341450020X © World Scientific Publishing Company, http://www.worldscientific.com/worldscinet/cej
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